July 5th-10th 2023
Every summer since they were born Grace and I have left the kiddo's with their grandparents to go climbing. This year we decided it was time for them to try it too.
I selected the Blue Glacier route on Mt. Olympus for three reasons: (1) I've never done it before, (2) It's a gorgeous unique glacier, and (3) The approach is so beautiful that I figured it'd be a satisfying backpacking trip regardless of our success on the climb. In the end we only made it up to 6800' on the 'Snow Dome', but it was a glorious wilderness travel experience.
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| The Blue Glacier and the many peaks of Mt. Olympus |
Day 1: Hoh Visitor Center to Lewis Meadows (10.1 mi 300')
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| berries abound |
Berry hunting quickly takes over as a driving motivator for Niels, and we move slowly browsing on a wide variety of delicious tart-sweet delicacies of the forest: blueberry, huckleberry, salmonberry, thimble berry, raspberry. Still, it's a long day, cheered near the end by the golden afternoon light mingling with waving grass heads and alder shade at Olympus Gaurd. A new fawn steps in and out of the light, alternately curious and fearful of us until it's mother leads it away.
At Lewis Meadows the kids are hungry, and suddenly I question my decision to count each of them as only half a person when I packed the food bags. We sleep in earshot of the Hoh with not another human soul around. I resign myself to loosing a little weight before the end of the trip.
Day 2: Lewis Meadows to Glacier Meadows (7.2 mi, 3100')
From here there are just a couple more flat miles before the trail begins to climb in earnest, past the high Hoh bridge and on up from the lowland rainforest into the montane foliage. The salmonberries are gone, but the area around the bridge could be the Great Olympic Blueberry Patch. As we climb, and the berries fade, the animal guessing game, story game, and singing "the bear song" with ever more gruesome variations occupy little minds while the legs churn ever on. The washout and ladders get everyone's attention for a while, and we don helmets to negotiate passage of the rubbles slopes. At last, Glacier Meadows, high in the forest above the mosquito ridden creek bed. I scout the moraine trails, and find a plausible path down to the glacier.
Day 3: Olympus Attempt! (3800' to summit, 2500' to turnaround)
We crest the moraine as light begins gilding the many peaks of Olympus, and start down the long rubble slope to the ablated glacial trunk. Niels cackles delightedly as stones, dirt, and gravel cascade at every step. I grip his hand and keep us both upright. It's his favorite part of the day. Miriam is (rightly) less pleased.
I should have set the rope up at camp, or atop the moraine, and stowed it for fast access. A bitter wind flows down the ice, and the time needed to pay out the coils and tie everyone in is chilling. But away we go past rivulets of meltwater and many small moulin, draining the snows of Olympus to the sea. The kids micro spikes don't bite well, and there is a lot of slipping and skittering until we reach the firn. Even then, their hiking boots aren't up to the task. If only proper mountain gear existed for kids!
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| Snacks always make life better |
As we approach the icefall and our turn up the Snow Dome, Niels sits down. I'm not sure if its the cold, hunger, the poor footing, or just the strangeness of it all. He won't go further, and we sit for a bit to snack and discuss. A lot goes through my mind. Things I could say: "we've come so far", "don't disappoint the team", ..., all bad reasons to climb a mountain. You have to want to, and if the reasons you go are external you shouldn't be there. I agree that we will go down if he wants to, and then Miriam takes the choice of whether to exert pressure out of my hands. Face down in the snow, she sobs, realizing that we might not continue. Either the blood sugar boost or compassion for his sister make the difference. We compromise on "summiting" the Snow Dome.
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| "summit" of the Snow Dome |
The snow slopes are broken by rock bands and, as we weave through them, brilliant quartz crystals reawaken Niels desire to explore. Its clear that the kids footwear is simply not adequate for the slopes, and I get a lot of practice holding their weight on the rope as things steepen past 30 degrees. But conditions are secure for the properly equipped, and we easily rope them up to the glacial flats above.
Lunch on the brown rocks, sun shining on the peaks above, and views down the Hoh valley make a lovely summit experience. We head down with everyone happy, and Niels' singing charms the descent. "wom, wom, whatty wombat!" all the way down. Slipping and sliding against the rope and my securely plunged heels.
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| Descending with a song |
Back at camp by early afternoon, it's nevertheless clear that turning around was the right course. The kids are beat, a reminder that daylight is not the only limitation on the length of our days with them.
Day 4: Glacier Meadows to Olympus Guard Station (8.2 mi, -3200')
The descent is flavored with anticipation. It's back to berries today, down through the mist that has filled the Hoh valley. By mid afternoon we are back among the waving alder at Olympus Guard. A swim in the frigid Hoh River shocks the mind amid a midsummers dream of dancing dappled shade and wandering fawns.
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| curious fawn at Olympus Guard |
Day 5: Olympus Guard Station to Hoh Visitor Center (9.1 mi, -200')
The hike out of the Hoh valley goes as fast as our food supply. By the time we reach the car we have 12 sour patch kids left, and nothing else. Then it's off to Ruby Beach for a few tumbles in the waves, the cold saltwater washing sore but happy feet.
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