 |
| The Spearhead, RMNP |
9/13/2011
After hearing about Evan's brilliant trip to the Black Lake area, Grace and I had to give the Spearhead a try. The forecast was cold and a bit wet, so we opted for the North Ridge as a laid back objective we could complete even if the weather turned foul. This was part of my thinking when I decided to do the climb in boots, but mostly I just wasn't thinking hard enough.
The first third of the route went smoothly. We pitched out the first two rope lengths on solid 5.5ish ground. Very fun, despite the heinous appearance of the chimeny you have to climb. After that the difficulties eased and we simuled up to the Barb belay, taking the Barb gully because the delicious slabs and flakes further to the right looked scary in boots.
From the Barb notch we were faced with the crux pitch, which looked improbable. You step right into a very thin finger crack, and while the slab would be fine for rock shoes, it didn't offer much purchase for my boots. Oh well. I sewed up the crack, aided in a few places, and generally flailed my way up. It started snowing. I pulled directly over the roof at the top of the crack with a strenuous mantel and liberal use of my knees.
From above the roof I believe I followed Evan's hand crack until I could peer around the left side of the ridge crest. The crack continued but the face steepened and there was nothing for my feet. F-that! I down climbed and made a traverse right, building a semi-hanging belay from a slung chockstone and a couple passive pieces. I brought Grace up (much grunting at the roof) and she moved the belay further right into a comfy alcove.
From the alcove I pulled over a strenuous bulge on decent hand-jams, leading to an easy slot that got me to the upper terrace in less than half a rope length.
The snow had stopped, but began again as we were snacking on the terrace. We opted to forgo the summit and descend. The snow came and went; then came again as a steady rain.
All in all this was a very good climb, but doing it in boots made it feel more like 5.9 than 5.6! It also compelled us to skip some of the fun climbing lower down. I'd like to go back some sunny day with rock shoes so I can fully enjoy the route.
Posts
