Waddington Range: Dragonback Traverse, AD 4th (minor 5.9) 120 m

8/4/2010

Minor 5.9? Say what?

8/3
was a weather day. Threatening clouds and high winds AM, dying toward evening.

8/4

Thick forest fire smoke rolled in with more high winds in the AM, so we decided to try the Dragonback traverse as an easier alternative to one of the Serras. We elected to do it out and back from camp, rather than bring heavy boots and crampons to come back down the glacier. Turned out to be mostly very enjoyable and solid, 3rd, 4th, and low 5th class scrambling. Until, that is, we came to the overhanging off-width corner. Not easy in mountain boots! (lowest notch between the two main summits) I plugged the #3 low in the crack, and somehow grunted up the three or four moves. I emerged on the crest panting hard with my glacier glasses askew. Still not really sure how or what I did! Jim was more clever, and aided it. From there it was one more quick simul-pitch up to the true summit. But then we had to come back. I tried an alternative route I thought would be easier, but that turned into a 5.8ish hand traverse. Serious shenanigans ensued. I think if you try and stick right on the crest rather than letting yourself be diverted, this section would actually go at a very reasonable 5.6. However, it isn't obvious, and I didn't recognize this fact until all was over and done. No matter, another fantastic moderate day out, despite the smoke!